RURRENABAQUE
As the closest town to Madidi National Park in the Bolivian Amazon we thought Rurrenabaque (Rurre to the locals) would be a small with very few amenities but we were pleasantly surprised. You can feel the difference in temperature, the humidity whacks you in the face straight off the bus. Situated on the River Beni it has adventure in abundance.
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getting there
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From La Paz | There are only two options to get to Rurrenabaque and you can only get there easily from La Paz, with most opting to fly instead of getting the dreaded bus journey.
The flight takes forty minutes but it is a backpacker budget busting £150 return, there are daily flights and the cancellation rates have dropped since having a tarmac runway built. Though they are still weather dependant.
The other option is a night bus. The buses leave from Barrio Villa Fatima (corner Ave De Las Americas and Calle Virgen De Carmen) so you need to take a taxi or a collectivo from the centre which takes about twenty minutes. You will hear horror stories about this bus but our opinion is it isn’t that bad. It used to take the famous death road route but there’s a ‘new’ road. The new route isn't for the faint of heart either and the darkness saves you from a view down sheer cliffs, landslides and hairpins. It can be quite bumpy and if there has been heavy rain the buses may not run. It takes about thirteen hours depending on conditions it can sometimes take 15-16 hours. Take snacks. Tickets cost 70 - 90bs (£8 - £11).
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To Stay
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El Curichal | El Curichal is family run, it has a swimming pool, bar, hammocks and they will organise your bus journey for you and help you get back to the airport if needed. They offers dorms, private rooms with shared bathrooms or private rooms with private bathrooms. Very affordable, we paid £18 for a private room and bathroom with breakfast included. Breakfast is bread, fruits, jam, and scrambled eggs with tea, coffee and juice. The owner is kind of forgetful so make sure he writes it down or speak to his wife. We met two other couples who'd extended their stay only to be evicted when the day came because he'd forgotten.
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To do
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Visit the Rainforest | You would not be in Rurrenabaque if you were not planning on visiting the jungle and you must must go! There are two popular options: The pampas or the Salvas (the deep jungle). There are many different tour agencies that will offer trips to either one or combined tours but (as always) do your research on and make sure they are ethical in their approach to both the ecology and the indigenous communities. You can book in advance or in person but if you are a solo traveller many agencies need a minimum of two to start a trip. I don’t think that will be a problem in peak season. Itineraries can be flexible with agreement from all. Tours range from 3-6 days but it's not a problem if you wanted to extend your stay, if there is space.
The Pampas | Will offer you a wider range of animals like Anacondas, Caiman, Capybaras, Pink Dolphins, Monkeys and Birds but it is not the true jungle.
The Salvas | Whilst the Salvas won’t offer you as many animals it is the true jungle in the Madidi National Park, just be prepared for mosquitos and clothes that never really dry.
We did a Salvas tour and chose to go with Madidi EcoLodge. We can’t recommend this tour agency enough. Ethical in their approach, they do not feed the animals, it is run by indigenous people and the money goes back into the communities an protecting the habitat. It was the perfect choice. Our guide knew everything there is to know about the jungle growing up in a community just along the river and made the best animal sounds.
We were amazed by the lodge itself, having booked a cabin with a shared bathroom we were surprised when we were given a big cabana with a private bathroom in the most incredible surroundings. Waking up to the sound of howler monkeys is something else. There’s a communal seating area where you meet for your daily hikes and also a dining room for all your meals. Every meal is included and we must say it is some of the best food we had eaten in Bolivia. The portions were huge with 3 courses, juice, tea and coffee and enough variety. Take snacks if you think you might get hungry but the meals were more than sufficient for us.
Madidi EcoLodge has 40km of its own trails surround the lodges making their way through the National park. Home to gigantic old growth trees that tower over the canopy and a constant chorus of animal and insect sounds. Your senses will enhance as you learn to recognise the sounds and smells of the jungle. It’s an experience you will not forget. Each day your guide gives a briefing prior to your hike, normally they range from 2-3 hours. You will have a night hike and head up the river in a dugout canoe to try your hand at piranha fishing. Itineraries are flexible so if you really have something in mind that you want to do or see just ask them. The price of our trip was $270 (£220).
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