QUILOTOA LOOP

Not in fact a loop, but a 25 mile hiking trail leading to Laguna Quilotoa. Starting in the town of Sigchos and climbing through Isinlivi and Chugchilan. People tend to take 3 days to complete it. You can go in either direction but we highly recommend leaving the summit Lagoon until the last day. It’s super cheap and a good way to get out into the countryside. 

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getting there

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From Banos | There are regular buses heading to Latacunga, most are going all the way to Quito. The cost is $2.90 (£2.30) but just be aware that it may not go all the way to the town of Latacunga and you will need to hop off on the highway when they shout and get another local bus for $0.50 (£0.40) into the town. The journey takes around 2 hours from Banos. They don't always shout so keep on eye on your Maps.me.

The next step is get a bus to your starting point which will more than likely be Sigchos. They are super easy and there's regular departures from the terminal we took the 10:30am bus for $2.70 (£2.20) with Iliniza or there is Reina de Sigchos leaving every hour in the morning and then further departures in the afternoon. You will want to catch an early bus anyway so you have time to hike and relax at your first stop. 

To return just head to the main road in Quilotoa and flag down any bus heading to Latacunga. We were lucky and there was one waiting as we got to the road. They are more of less every hour. There's a huge sign with departure times as you exit Quilatoa Town.

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To Stay

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In Latacunga there are a few options that all reasonably priced. Make sure you find one that has free luggage storage. We stayed at Hotel Central it was £19 for a double room and private bathroom right on the square. It’s about a 15 minute walk to the Bus Terminal. Being right on the square it is quite loud in the evening and the morning. The staff are great although don’t speak any English and breakfast is offered at £3.50 (£2.90) which is coffee/tea, juice, scrambled eggs, bread, jam, ham and cheese and avocado. There’s a lot on the plate and more if you want it.

In Isinlivi our first stop we stayed at our favourite hostel on the trek which is Hostal Taita Cristobal it is £28 for a double room, private bathroom with breakfast and dinner included. The food was excellent and healthy and you can have free tea all day. It’s got a lovely little lounge area with log fire, communal guitar and they bring out some llamas to pet in the evening. Lulu Llama Hostel next door is popular too. It’s slightly more expensive but also has great reviews. 

In Chugchilan we stayed at Hostal Cloud Forest where you can find most hikers. It is £28 for a lovely double room with private bathroom which had a big rain shower. Breakfast and dinner was included and there's free tea and coffee all day. We did find the food disappointing, it was nothing compared to the previous nights. Breakfast was good with pancakes, fruit and eggs but no juices. The facilities at this place are great, there’s a huge games room, a sauna and a Turkish bath for an extra charge. If you have some time you can rent a car or a horse. Great to unwind after a hard day walking. 

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THE HIKE 

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I would recommend using Maps.me or any other offline map app to help you get around. We had no issues with the wild dogs that are reported in the reviews but we did have a few children begging for food, one young boy with his dad was quite rude on the last day not believing we didn’t have any food and saying yes you do it’s in your bag. Just keep walking and remember that rarely does a handout help.

Day 1 | The hike starts close to Starlight inn in the town of Sigchos. The first half of the day has gradual ups and downs with nothing to hard. About 10 minutes after starting we came across a bull in the path which refused to move and there was no way to get past so we turned around and took a detour. The second half has a strenuous climb after crossing the river, this may be the first time you feel the altitude, once you’ve finished the climb it’s a road walk to the first town. We didn’t think Day 1 was that special and if you decided to start at Isinlivi you wouldn’t miss much. 

Day 2 | There are a couple of different routes that you can take. Ask your hostel which one they recommend and if there have been any recent landslides which would close the trails. We took the lower route crossing the suspension bridge at the bottom of the valley. Before you reach the suspension bridge there are some really steep downhill sandy sections which are very slippery. Luckily it was dry when we went but if it was raining it would have been difficult. Lower your centre of gravity and crouch and you walk down, you look stupid but it’s easier. Walking poles aren't essential but would help. Once you reach Itualo you can take the steps (with handrail) for £1 (£0.80) or go further up and just walk up another sandy path. The steps don’t look much easier and don’t go all the way to the top so take your pick when you get there. It’s extremely steep going up and hard work but at the top there is a view point and a little seat to rest. The end of the days hike is along a road all the way to Chugchilan. It’s not that pretty but a welcome break from sandy paths. 

Day 3 | The best but hardest day. Don’t be put off by the uphill it is so worth it at the top. It’s a long slow uphill stretch to the Lagoon all day. Half way there is a lovely hut near the waterfalls to stop and have a snack. The road up to the ridge is sandy and hard on your feet so it’s very slow going. Once you reach the top you are congratulated with a view of the caldera Lagoon with a little shack selling snacks and seats to admire it all. Its cold and the weather can change quickly. After you’ve taken it in there are a few options to get to the town of Quilotoa. You can go clockwise and walk the longer way around the ridge which will take 3/4 hours or you can go anti-clockwise and walk the ridge for around an hour. Here there are three tracks, we took the right hand option and it was fine. The left option looks the best but it goes down most of the way to the lake before going back up again, the middle looks very steep to begin with and not so safe and the right one goes around the back and then comes back to the ridge for a beautiful final stretch. 

The tiny town of Quilotoa has plenty of cafes and restaurants to choose from before you catch the bus back and it has a viewpoint of the lake too if you take a day trip. 

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