MEDELLIN
The city that’s gone from the most dangerous place in the world to a number one travel destination. It’s got an incredible and sad history, it’s got Boujie cafes, vegan restaurants and chic hotels. It's got street art and stories. Boutique and budget. You can spend months or days here and not get itchy feet. It’s one of our favourite destinations.
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getting there
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Flights are normally affordable depending on the time of year. We were there in the December peak and our budget just didn’t stretch to a flight so we sucked it up and took a bus.
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Top Tip: If you can afford to fly, just fly.
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From Pasto | We booked with Bolivariano and paid a budget busting £30 each, the flights can be cheaper at times and not much more at others. It was a 7pm night bus that left an hour later and was due to get in at 10:30am but actually got in at 3:30pm so yep, 20 hours.
From the North | If you are coming from the North then there are buses or flights from Cartagena and Santa Marta. If you can afford it then fly, the bus journey from Cartagena with Expreso Brasilia takes 14 hours and costs £35 and from Santa Marta with Expreso Brasilia takes 16 hours and costs £35.
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To Stay
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The backpackers head to El Poblado and Laureles. El a Poblado is the larger tourist destination; with great hostels and hotels It is the upmarket district in the city. It has an exceptional cafe culture with some of the best coffee we have had in South America. Laureles has many an Airbnb, is more residential and a good choice for a longer term stay.
Viajero Medellin | We stayed at the Viajero in El Poblado. We were there for 6 nights over Christmas as we wanted somewhere with a bit of atmosphere. We were impressed but not blown away. We paid £16 each a night for a bed in an 8 bed dorm room. The top end of our budget, and without breakfast. The Viajero chain offer a great breakfast but it is only included for private room bookings. To everyone else its around 16,000Cop.
Luckily, eating out is cheap in Medellín and the area surrounding the hostel has great culinary options. The rooms are cosy with an ensuite, slightly on the small side for 8 people but the beds are pods; each with their own fan, sockets, shelf and light so you can have you time if needed. The facilities in the hostel are some of the best; there’s a cafe, a kitchen, a quite co-work room, a rooftop bar with hot tubs and a lounge area downstairs with a ping pong table. There's a chalk board advertising daily activities; from the ubiquitous beer pong tournament to Spanish slang lessons.
There are a lot of upmarket hotels in the area if money isn’t an issue and Los Patios Hostel is another hit with travellers. A double room costs almost £70 a night and a bunk in a 4 bed dorm will cost around £20 a night.
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To do
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Don't Talk About Bruno (or just Parque Del Rio) | If you are lucky to be in Medellín for Christmas you have to go and see the famous Christmas lights stretched along and across the Medellin River. Each year they have a different theme and they are incredible. This year was Encanto themed, it’s a place for locals just as much as tourists. Street vendors line the route selling everything from dried ant guaranteed to help you perform to marchin' powder. Entry is free and it’s a 5 minute drive from El Poblado to Parque Del Rio.
The Botanical Gardens | The Botanical Gardens are a nice little respite from the bustling city and free to enter. There’s a cafe, a lagoon with iguanas and turtles and a butterfly house (extra 5,000Cop (£1.10)). It’s quite small so you won’t be there too long. To get here you can get the excellent train to Universidad Station and it is right outside.
Take a Walking Tour to Comuna 13 | There are a few walking tours that you can do around the city. There’s an El Poblado tour, a historical centre tour and a Comuna 13 tour. If you are taking a Comuna 13 we recommend taking one with a local from the Comuna so the money will be reinvested there. Famous for its street art and dark history; the most dangerous neighbourhood in the most dangerous city, in the world. A walk around The Comuna will cost 115,000Cop (£20) while the others remain tip based - a suitable tip is around 46,000Cop (£8) We took the Historical Centre tour which was informative and lasted around 3 hours with a little stop for food or a drink in between. You can book these online at www.freetour.com
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something else
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Police Searches | Enroute to Medellin from Pasto a drugs dog came on board with 2 police officers and took a girl off, the driver waited while she was searched and allowed back on. The bus company took a video of everyone on board. Early in the morning our bus was also stopped checked by the police who checked all our IDs removed another passenger they didn't like the look of.
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Escobar | One of the things people might want to do is go and see the hippos and Pablo Escobars old home La Hacienda Napoles (The Naples Estate). He's taboo in Medellin, most locals try to forget the misery he brought upon the city. Though, they’re resisting a cull of the ever expanding hippo population. We decided against it but there are tours that will take you there if you want to go.
NEXT STOP
With it's crooked and colourful colonial streets, ancient history, assortment of accommodation, food and shopping for every budget, and sunsets to die for. Cartagena is no longer Medellin's poor neighbour.