CUSCO
Cusco, the gateway to Machu Picchu, tourist central and once the capital of the Incan Empire. It has a lot to offer but probably the first place you will experience the high altitude. At over 11,000ft it doesn’t help that it has quite a few hills. Take your time when you first arrive and make sure your body can adjust.
How to get there
With a big airport it is quite easy to fly in from anywhere from within South America. There are also plenty of bus options to get you in and out.
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From Arequipa | The bus takes just over 12 hours but if the tyre goes flat like ours did it will take much longer. Prices start from around £16 with Cruz Del Sur.
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Where to stay
We recommend staying within the historical centre. This is where all of your shops, bars, restaurants, markets and activities will either start or end. Accommodation varies from budget friendly to five star luxury hotels.
Saqray Hostel | We split our time between Machu Picchu and stayed two nights at Saqray Hostel and then a week in an Airbnb on our return. The hostel was great, the staff were helpfully friendly, it had a nice chill out area and breakfast was included. You can also ask store your luggage whilst you go on your trips for free. We had a private room with a shared bathroom for £21 per night.
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What to do
Machu Picchu of course, which we will cover in a separate Machu Picchu Guide, though Cusco has much more to offer besides.
Rainbow Mountain
Rainbow Mountain will be next on a hikers list, with seven different rock colours it looks impressive on the photos and attracts a lot of visitors. A must for the Instagram traveller - though be prepared for less than a full spectrum of colours seen on the advertisements and a queue to get your shot. Prices range dramatically with full day tours starting at £24 and ending at £155. Make sure you do your research before booking as the mountain is 17,100ft high (High Altitudes begin at 8,000ft, Very High at 12,000) so safety is incredibly important. It’s an early morning pickup and you will be out for around fourteen hours so be prepared for a long day.
Tour the Sacred Valley
The Sacred Valley tours normally consist of Pisac, Urubamba, Ollantaytambo and Chinchero but some include Moray and the Maras Salt Mines. These are areas of farmland and Spanish colonial villages, with Pisac being famous for its Sunday handicraft market. Bear in mind it might be quite expensive to visit them all and the prices will not include the Cusco tourist ticket. For all the sites it's 130 soles (£28), for partial sites it is 70 soles (£15). You can find more information here.
Self Guided Inca Ruins Tour
Sacsayhuamán (pronounced 'sexy women') is visible from the Plaza De Armas located at the top of a steep hill. It is a citadel built by the Incas in the 15th Century and has an amazing array of dry stone walls. Oh and the view of the city from the top is incredible. Because it is so close to the city it is possible to walk to the entrance and then back down again self guided. You have to buy a partial tourist ticket for 70 soles (£15) but this does get you access to other Cusco ruins close to the city. If you fancy hiking them all and getting away from the crowds like we did follow this great article from Along Dusty Roads for the route and information.
People Watch with a Brew
Have a coffee on the balconies of one of many cafes surround Plaza De Armas. It’s a great people watching spot and a good vantage point to watch the many parades around the square. Almost every weekend you will hear the sound of firecrackers and gunshots echoing around the town. Peruvians love a parade. Cappuccino Cafe was our favourite cafe on the square to watch the action.
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A note about the square - it is not a place you would want to hang around early morning, a few Machu Picchu tours will pick up from the square but there are a lot of drunks that hang around so keep everything safe and be vigilant.
Relax with a Massage
After all the hiking you can treat yourself to a super cheap hour long massage. You will be approached by many women offering cheap massages starting at 20 soles (£4.30). They are legitimate. We found the 20 soles massages were for half an hour and street prices are there to entice you. When you are inside they will try and up sell you for a longer or more luxurious massage. We paid 40 soles (£8.60) each for an hour long massage and whilst you will not get a relaxing spa experience the massages themselves are quality. Expect to be mounted - (not like that) and only because of the mechanics.